Paris On November 17th, a group of leading figures in gastronomy gathered at Sciences-Po Paris to discuss a subject that is still largely taboo.

From left to right: sociologist Frédéric Brugeilles, Adeline Grattard, Cyril Lignac, Ludo Lefebvre, Grégory Marchand, Christian Etchebest and Maïtena Biraben.

Rain or shine, topics related to food draw crowds, even when dealing with such unpalatable themes as physical violence, abuse of power, sexism, hazing, or even racism behind the scenes in restaurants. Thus, thanks to the successful initiative of Le Fooding and the gastronomic website Atabula, the Jacques Chapsal amphitheater at Sciences Po Paris was packed like a premiere night. The predominantly female audience justified the first playful touch from the master of ceremonies. Maïtena Biraben : "Why are there so many girls here tonight? Is it because we're going to talk about cooking or because we're going to talk about violence?" A less playful tone emerged when the event organizers, Alexandre Cammas, the father of Fooding, and Franck Pinay-RabaroustThe founder and editor-in-chief of Atabula opened the plenary session. The former recounted the story of a disabled apprentice assigned to the "cold" area, the target of bullying by an entire brigade who battered him with crutches. But it was the latter, visibly moved, who reported shocking incidents such as a knife stabbed in the calf of an apprentice deemed insufficiently compliant, or the kicks inflicted by a supervisor who forced some of his victims to wear shin guards when they came to work.

Franck Pinay-Rabaroust mentioned receiving over 150 emails following the publication of his article last April about the burns inflicted by a chef de partie, who had just arrived at Lenôtre, on an apprentice at Pré Catelan. These facts were confirmed byFrédéric Antonwho fired the culprit as soon as he became aware of it. Shocking testimonies that sparked a fascinating debate among the sociologist Frédéric Brugeilles, the director of the prestigious Ferrandi hotel school Bruno de Monteand eight big names in gastronomy: Cyril Lignac (The Fifteenth, The Meadow Thistle),Adeline Grâtard (Yam'tcha), the star of French chefs in the United StatesLudo Lefebvre (Three Guys and Little Three) Gregory Marchand(Frenchie) Christian Etchebest (La Cantine de La Cigale) Gérard Cagna (retired chef and co-author of a manifesto on violence in the kitchen), Thierry marx (The bespoke experience at the Mandarin Oriental) and Alain Passard (L'Arpège), the last two being present via video.

« There's a line between demanding and being mean.

"Gunshot, rifle, brigade... That's some pretty warlike rhetoric... So this is what cooking is all about?" Maïtena Biraben mischievously questions him. A tantalizing introduction that's sure to get Christian Etchebest riled up: “I’ve had my share of kicks in the pants. Yet I don’t consider myself to have ever been a victim of violence. Television came along, and it only shows beautiful things. But you can’t come [to the kitchen] with a jaunty attitude. The job is tough. Discipline isn’t gratuitous violence. Thirty years ago, it was sink or swim. No one ever asked questions about salaries or hours. Today, young people think they’ll arrive and make beautiful plates, but before that, there’s the washing up, the peeling…” For Grégory Marchand, the kitchen "This isn't office life." And to mention the bullying he suffered in London:"Kitchens are very tough in England. I threw in the towel after a new chef arrived. There's a line between high standards and meanness. Even if it's hot in the kitchen and the hours and pressure are harsh, there has to be respect!" With disarming kindness, Ludo Lefebvre then evokes the culture shock with the Americans: “When I arrived in the United States, people thought I was crazy. I was always shouting. Management across the Atlantic is more participative, with many meetings where problems are discussed collectively. Later, I had a pastry chef whose work I didn't like. I often sent his desserts back. He sued me for it. In France, I was an apprentice at 14. I opened oysters. I got punched once. We were all afraid of the chef.”

"Sexism made me rage."

Adeline Grattard feels she owes a certain amount of kindness towards the girls who make up part of her team, because of what men put her through: "I experienced vulgar things because I'm a girl. Sexism made me angry. The violence comes more often from the team than from the boss."she said, before acknowledging a problem with young people: "As soon as you raise your voice even slightly, things get out of hand." To which Cyril Lignac quickly added: “In my day, I waited for months for a position to become available at Alain Passard’s. Today, all three-star restaurants are looking for staff.”«  With his umbrella-cane in hand, the very British director of Ferrandi theorizes about this feeling of violence that beginners can experience: "Young people no longer have the same level of acceptance, and the pressure can be perceived as violence." " But, Frédéric Brugeilles,To achieve great things, constraints are necessary." And here's the teasing Canal+ journalist reigniting the debate: "Adeline, is it more difficult for a woman to work with women?" "A woman is more skilled at calming tensions." the cook believes."It's pleasant to work with women because they never complain. Every month, I take them into my office one by one…" Ludo Lefebvre's attempt triggers laughter from the audience. …to make sure everything is alright. In the United States, you can't even touch a breast. I'm afraid of lawsuits.« 

"Without exemplary behavior, there can be no authority."

Gérard Cagna, He then stood up from the front row to describe the spiral of violence: “It starts with little nudges, crutches… Apart from a handshake, skin is sacred, an insurmountable barrier. One day, at Maxim’s, I was washing mushrooms. We had to be quick. The chef patted me on the back. My whole body vibrated. Back then, I could throw the 1 kg discus 40 meters, I could have flattened it. This was the 1960s… If I had retaliated, my career would have been over. I cried. It feels good to cry.” À Alain Passard et Thierry marx to conclude with a video. To the question: " Were you hit?", The chef of L'Arpège responds:"Yes, but I prefer not to name names. They are respectable people, they became ugly. Later, you use what they did to you." Finally, for Thierry Marx: "Without exemplary behavior, there can be no authority." Finally, it remains to be seen what happens in some kitchens when the chef is absent, and in particular the attitude of the 'little corporals' towards the weakest.

With kind permission of the Journal de l'Hôtellerie