Michael Ellis: "French gastronomy is in full swing"

75 - Paris With a total of 70 chefs, including Yannick Alléno who achieved double triple star status, the 2017 edition set a record for the past decade. Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin Guides, emphasized the vitality of French cuisine.

	Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin Guides: 'I am finishing my sixth year and I believe that the vitality of gastronomy in France has never been so remarkable.'

Hospitality & Catering: What do you think of Yannick Alléno's cuisine?

Michael Ellis: What is extremely interesting is that the cuisine of Yannick Alleno The cuisine at his restaurant in 1947 is very different from that of his Parisian establishment, even though he still references extraction, flavor concentration, and fermentation. He creates a modern Savoyard cuisine that blends local products with advanced techniques. This idea of ​​concentrating flavors through cryoconcentration adds depth to ingredients with a subtle taste. The flavors are pronounced, like the sorrel that captivated my palate. It's astonishing and unique. He has created a work that represents a true departure in the culinary world.

What are your thoughts on the 2017 vintage?

I'm finishing my sixth year, and I believe the vitality of gastronomy in France has never been so remarkable. We had 46 new Michelin-starred restaurants in 2015, 54 in 2016, and 70 in 2017. This is proof of this dynamism. It's also important to emphasize that this vitality is flourishing in all regions. The network of Michelin-starred restaurants is becoming increasingly dense.

Boss or salaried boss?

For MichelinOnly the food matters. When a chef is in the kitchen, he's in his element. The fact that he's the owner is irrelevant. It's not a criterion in the inspectors' evaluation, even though, in this complicated economic climate, we're delighted when we see the success of a chef-owner. Moreover, we're seeing more and more small establishments, where investment and payroll are reduced. It's then easier to survive, especially in a context where reservations are so unpredictable.

What are the trends?

The trend towards shorter menus is confirmed. They are justified both economically and ecologically, favoring short supply chains for fresh, local products. Moreover, this is how some are able to offer unbeatable prices, such as... Jérôme Jaeglé [1 star], with its €24 menu. The only advice that MichelinYour goal should be to fill your restaurant with customers who want to return. You need to ask yourself two questions: what do they want to eat and how much are they willing to pay?

Will you be highlighting front-of-house professions in the guide?

We are currently reviewing our restaurant service because we believe in establishing a clear and explicit recommendation system for the customer experience within the restaurant. We want to ensure objective criteria for evaluation. These criteria must also be applicable in all countries.

And what about the pastries?

This is also an area we are working on, one that is close to our hearts and requires time. French pastry tradition is unique, and we must consider the cultures of different countries to develop objective criteria.

Nadine Lemoine

With kind permission from the Journal de l'Hôtellerie